The nautical adventures and misadventures of Hejira, her skipper, and all who sail in her…
Author: Nick Mines
Having sailed for most of my adult life, I retired (took a step back) from my company Atom Ltd. which continues in my partial absence, producing really excellent work and run by a gifted team of loyal employees. I now sail my Southerly 135 and crew on various friends yachts, just enjoying being on the water. I continue to 'nudge the tiller' at Atom , probably more often than really necessary or welcome!
Having finally been âblocked offâ ashore in Northney Marina after the machinations outlined in the previous blog, unfortunately, the saga didnât end there.
The Northney boatyard staff, seemingly disgruntled with the events as they unfolded, and unhappy about the safety of Hejira or any yachts bearing the slippery Silic antifouling, chose to escalate the situation and request an inspection by the  MDL Health and Safety inspectorate.
MDL are a corporation, and they have 19 Marinas. They lift out and block off a huge number of boats and yachts so there should be no question about their overall competence. The new Silic antifouling system that has been gaining traction among boat owners, seems to be adding a new dimension⊠ Itâs whole âraison dâetreâ is the fact that it is slippery and that âfoulingâ finds it difficult to attach itself to the surface. However, itâs very slipperiness, clearly presents an issue when blocking off and I can understand the apprehensions when the boatyard, inevitably, carries safety responsibilities.
The Hejira situation was clearly a new challenge, as the boatyard staff had not been confronted by such an issue in the past. In trying to address the unexpected slippage, the Silic was removed from the areas where the propping pads bore on the hull. The situation was then no different to any of the other yachts and the âblocking offâ of Hejira thankfully, eventually, passed muster and work on the hull can now continue.
I am told that MDL will be reviewing their guidelines regarding vessels treated with Silic. This requires confirmation, but my understanding is that only yachts with a dedicated âcradleâ will be accepted if they have the Silic antifouling treatment, and that there is even a debate as to whether it will be necessary to have the mast removed before lifting to reduce windage.
A typical yacht cradle, providing structural support for the hull.
Given the above, I have made the only pragmatic decision, and my Silic antifouling is being totally removed. It will be replaced by a premium, hard antifouling.
My sailing ambitions over the coming years will involve periodic lifting for a jet wash and maintenance. The likelihood is that this will be in some far-flung destinations, where, from previous experience, communication is likely to be difficult.
It will be reassuring that a durable antifouling will be in place and that no special supervision will be required to prevent damage.
During the major refit 2 years ago, I had the opportunity to review the antifouling situation. (the coating on the hull to prevent the growth of weed and barnacles etc) The existing  âcoppercoatâ treatment was both disappointing (maybe I expected too much) and coming to the end of its effective life, so I thought it was maybe time for an upgrade. A new product by Hempel, called âSilic Oneâ was getting rave reviews in the yachting press and seemed, from the hype, to have all the answers. The antifouling promised to be effective for several years, only ever needing just lightly hosing off (it would be stripped by power washing) and it is, apparently, easy to augment with no additional surface preparation. The principle is that it is very slippery and anything that tries to stick to it will just wash off with the passage of water when underway. The treatment on my propeller works on a similar principle and it is very effective.
Craned out, the Propspeed treatment looking quite good and even the Silic doesn’t look too bad here. (the prop is a Bruntons Autoprop and it may look strange. It is worth checking out as it is self pitching and the YouTube videos are weird)
What was not to like? I have now found out!
The hull preparation demanded the complete stripping of the existing coppercoat, right back to the epoxy substrate which was an arduous job. There was then a complicated sequence of applications with a final âtie coatâ before the actual silic covering could be applied. Additionally, the temperature and humidity is a critical factor and, over the winter, it was necessary to erect a âtentâ around the hull to achieve the correct environmental conditions. You will have seen from previous blogs that the launch was frustratingly delayed into more benign climatic conditions and, had I known, the costly âtentingâ would actually have been unnecessary. What we had also not properly thought through was the fact that the inaccessible patches where the supporting cradle pads bore on the hull had prevented the complicated preparation and covering process in those areas. In the event, the very craning process when lifting back into the marina, scuffed away the delicate surface where the strops bore against the hull. All in all, the whole exercise was compromised, but by that stage, I was committed and had little choice. Maybe the shortfalls could be corrected at the next âliftâ â I thoughtâŠ
Initial indications were encouraging as we had a fast passage to Dun Laoghaire suggesting that the hull was super clean. We left Hejira in the marina near Dublin for several weeks and observed from other vessels, that the general level of fouling around the marina was pretty bad. Our onward passage should have washed the hull clean, but it became evident that the log impeller was seriously âunder readingâ despite thoroughly cleaning the paddle wheel which suggested that the hull had some growth. My brief icy dive off Oban cleared the fouling from the hull around the log opening and it subsequently began to read correctly, but it all indicated that the Silic was not performing as well as expected.
The lift on Monday 17th of February 2025 was to reveal the extent of the problem and I was resigned to making whatever decisions were necessary to ensure several years of easily maintained, fouling free sailing, possibly away from easy access to marina facilities.
Unfortunately, that morning, having moved Hejira to the waiting berth as stipulated by 08.30 for the promised 09.00 lift, by 10.00 there was still no activity apart from the staff debating moving other yachts to make a place for Hejira. Expecting to âdriveâ Hejira into the crane dock, we were told that they would âwarpâ her in and our help was not required. With no sign of any imminent activity, we decided to leave the marina to it.
It came as a complete surprise when, late afternoon, I had a call to say that Hejira was still in the slings as she had slipped when they were trying to block her off. The staff blamed the Silic coating as the supporting pads could not make a purchase against the slippery coating on the hull. I had arranged for Chris Murch from Hayling Yacht Services to be in attendance and he set about stripping the Silic from the area of the support pads and abrading the hull. Any notion of retaining and repairing the Silic coating was now abandoned.
The following morning, the yard staff were still not happy and insisting that they put Hejira back into the water as they could not safely âblock her offâ and there were other yachts with disgruntled owners, scheduled to be lifted. I was not happy as she had been âblocked offâ ashore at Northney half a dozen times before, even withstanding over 100mph winds, unattended over Christmas 10 years before. I ended up having to speak to more senior staff, and eventually the Marina Manager, explaining that Southerlies were designed to safely sit on their grounding plates when they dry out on the sand and mud between tides, without supports. I just could not understand their issue when they routinely deal with yachts right up in the air with 6-foot fin keels. I suggested that further areas around the grounding plate would be stripped of the slippery Silic and additional blocks could be used.
Blocks all around the grounding plate, the Silic removed and the area abraded where support pads bear.
They finally relented and she was âblocked offâ ashore late morning having spent 24 hours âin the slingsâ, now hopefully safe but with the manager labouring the point that they would have to carry out daily checksâŠ
Blocked off high enough to replace the rubber gasket surrounding the keel, another one of the jobs.
So, apart from the other jobs like replacing anodes, a seacock and tidying some hull windows, we will be stripping the Silic off the hull and applying the best traditional, hard, antifouling available. We should then be able, in future, to simply lift, wherever we are in the world, and have the hull pressure washed as necessary and returned straight back into the safe embrace of the sea.
The Hempel Silic One may be a fabulous product and the antifouling Nirvana for power boats which travel fast enough to purge their hulls of growth, but for a sailing yacht, particularly one as sedate as portly old Hejira, it is probably not the answer.
This solution has probably been worked out and already adopted by many of the people reading this. I will, however, feature it in case it is helpful to anyone.
It is often useful to hang a light, or other kit under the sprayhood or other canvas elsewhere on board.
‘Mozzy Zapper’ suspended on a magnetic hook.
Magnetic hooks are readily available on Amazon and, when combined with a ferrous âmateâ, can be temporarily added under a canvas covering and positioned to suit.
It has always seemed a good idea to catch fish from the yacht, why not⊠but my previous experiences have been mixed, at best.
Over the years, I have spent fortunes on fishing gear but my sporadic efforts at fishing have amounted to little, not that I have actually invested much time or energy in it… We did catch dorado and tuna on the first Trans-Atlantic and these ate well, but I think this was more by luck than judgement and it was achieved with little effort on my part.
The basic problem is that I had no idea what I was doing, and this ignorance made me reluctant to invest much time or effort in the quest.
I know a local chap, John Rose, who is a keen sea fisherman and conversations in the pub led to a day out, specifically for fishing.
November the 5th & 6th were chosen as the weather was to be calm and dry. The colder weather, I was told, should mean that there might be cod which was an additional attraction.
Arriving at the bait shop on Hayling Island at 08.30, on Johnâs advice, I parted with nearly ÂŁ40 for some squid and live rag worms.
Joined by Richard and his friend, Dave (also a fisherman) at the marina, we set off, full of hope and expectation â John had guaranteed fish, so I had brought along three large buckets for our substantial ‘catch’ !
John and Dave – the ‘fishermen’.
So, we motored out in very light winds and with a spring tide under us. We paused at the Nab Tower and drifted west as suggested.
The RNLI lifeboat passing us off the Nab Tower, clearly having rescued the occupants of the boat they are towing. The cabin of the lifeboat is rammed with people.
No fish, or even a hint of a fish. This was apparently because we were not anchored – so we anchored⊠still no fish. With dusk approaching, we picked up a mooring buoy off Seaview for the night.
The âenthusiastic threeâ proceeded to fish in the gloom and dark, convinced by fisherman John, that this was the best time to hunt our prey.
I must accept that fish were caught, but none that would supplement our rations.
Richard writes:
Oh dear, it was all going so well.
We started with high hopes and great expectations with dreams of huge cod by the dozen. But John warned that the waters may not be cold enough for cod at the moment but said that we could expect to catch different species, which indeed we did.
The two fishermen were enthusiastic, I was keen to learn and Nick, as we were to find out, has the patience of a gnat! If a fish didnât bite within three minutes of getting his bait in the water, he would wind it back in and declare, âspinning, thatâs what we need to do, spinningâ.
And so, spinners were found, tied to his line and off he went, merrily casting with his new, brightly coloured casting rod trying not to take anyoneâs eye out. But, three minutes later, âthis is a bloody waste of time and what you lot have caught wouldnât feed anyone, theyâre all inedible and far too smallâ.
Well, the numbers donât lie. The final tally was;
John                    5 conger eel, 1 smooth hound and 2 dog fish
John with the biggest of all the eels. But still very small…
Dave                   1 dog fish, 2 lovely sea bream and four eels
Small Bream
Richard              1 beautiful and quite enormous sea bass and 3 eels
Richard strangely delighted with this small bass. (don’t ever listen to ‘fisherman’s tales’ and claims that it was THIS big))
Nick                    Nothing. Nada, Niet, Zero. SFA. Not even a tiddler.
(Editors note: all of the fish were returned to the sea, alive, but probably with sore lips)
But, all of this pales into insignificance because, this morning, Trump is in the lead and Nick is seriously grumpy! Breakfast was had in stoney silence, nobody dared say anything for fear of eruption. Whatâs Nick going to be like if Trump actually wins? It will be like Brexit part II âŠâŠâŠâŠ OMG
For my Atlantic crossings in 2015 and 2016, as recommended, I installed the pricey Iridium Satellite communication system, together with special equipment to compress Emails to try to limit the colossal expense of communicating using Iridium. This was all justified, at the time, so I could keep on top of weather forecasts on passage by importing âGrib filesâ and also for publishing accounts of the ocean adventures on my web site in regular blogs. Unfortunately, user error inflicted a whopping ÂŁ6K bill resulting from my ineptitude on one calamitous afternoon: I had removed the firewall to send a picture (of an exceptionally large omelette made by my son, Ollie…) attaching the picture to a blog, but I forgot to put the firewall back on â a huge error and a very expensive omelette! The connected equipment on board had a âfield dayâ updating, downloading and doing whatever it wanted with gay abandon (can we still say that?). So, thoroughly disillusioned with everything Iridium, the whole expensive installation has barely been used since.
This year when we were out of mobile phone coverage on our adventures over the top of Scotland, and with intermittent connection, we craved weather forecast updates. The weather was capricious and persistently awful, for nearly all of the summer. I had various conversations with other cruising yachts from the USA and Scandinavia and they all sang the praises of the Starlink system that they had installed. A Norwegian skipper enthused about how he had watched Netflix in the middle of the Indian Ocean! From their accounts, Starlink seemed worthy of further investigation… I am certainly not a fan of Mr. Musk but he seems to have âcracked itâ with this system and, in collaboration with Phil, aka âGandalfâ, the company âtekkyâ, it became clear that it was a âno brainerâ. We opted for the Starlink Mini which is self-contained and only needs a power supply, all communication with it being by wifi.
Starlink dish mounted on the former Iridium mast.Neat and easy Starlink installation.
The whole system cost less than ÂŁ500 although, to run it from the 12v onboard system, a supplementary transformer was also required.
The transformer necessary to compensate for volt drop to the dish.
I now have download speeds of over 100megabits which is twice as fast as my broadband at home. The subscription is ÂŁ50 a month for 50GB when using it, but the contract can be paused whenever it is not being used – and I still have my mobile data sim connection… I believe that Starlink does require an enhanced subscription when over 12 miles offshore which I understand can also be paused at will.
So, on the face of it, my communication dilemma seems to have been sorted. No doubt time will tell when I embark on another offshore adventure. Be prepared to be plagued with numerous blog notifications!
I have followed our unfulfilled attempts to win the Americaâs Cup for most of my life and, for those that donât know, we originally lost it to the Americans over 173 years ago and we have never won it back. In the meantime, it has been won by the Australians, New Zealanders and even the Swiss. It is the oldest international competition still operating in any sport .
The British team had a stilted campaign in New Zealand at the last running of the Americaâs Cup series in 2021 when it was retained by the Kiwis after a race off against the Italians who had beaten us in the final of the challenger selection series.
NZ decided to auction the location of the defence of the cup, and the hosting rights were claimed by Barcelona. It is going on right now â and it is (in my opinion) fascinating.
The format is that the challengers race off against each other in a series of races to decide which yacht/nation should go âhead-to-headâ against the holders in a âmatch raceâ final. Match racing is probably the purest and most demanding form of racing with just two yachts pitted against each other. Needless to say, the Americaâs Cup (named after the first yacht to win it, âAmericaâ in 1851) has attracted big money sponsorship, and it bears no resemblance to traditional sailing with high tech, carbon fibre, 75-foot foiling machines sailing at up to 50mph. Modern film coverage has made it very dramatic and with computer graphics, it has become much more accessible and easier to understand. It is compelling viewing!
The British entry is âINEOS Britanniaâ and is skippered by multiple Olympic gold medallist, Sir Ben Ainslie. It is funded by billionaire industrialist, Sir Jim Ratcliffe who is a big sports fan and is part owner of Manchester United and the Mercedes Formula one team. The Britannia design team has a base in the F1 team headquarters in Brackley, applying their aerodynamics skills to hydrodynamics. Sir Jim is a controversial character, moving to Monaco immediately after he was knighted and championing Brexit, then choosing to manufacture his off road 4×4 vehicle, âGrenadierâ in France.
So, the preliminary âround robinâ series comprised 6 yachts, from Britain, France, America, Switzerland and Italy with New Zealand initially joining in. The series whittled the field down to 4 yachts which would then race off in semi-finals and then the final of the Louis Vuitton challenger selection series to determine the right to race against the Kiwis for the actual Americaâs Cup, starting on the 12th of October. NZ took part in the initial round robin series to hone their racing skills against their likely opponents then dropped out, so the country/yacht that came last which was the French yacht, was eliminated from the event. After a shaky start, INEOS Britannia, won through to win the series which entitled them to choose their opponents for the semi-finals. They selected the Swiss team (Alinghi Red Bull Racing) and, so far, Britannia are 4-0 up in the series, needing only one more race win to secure a place in the challenger selection final. They have progressively improved and they are currently looking very fast and slick. The other semi-final is between the Americans and the Italians, and it is currently 4-0 to the Italians. So, the race off to decide who faces the New Zealanders in the final is likely to be between Britain and our nemesis from the last running of the cup, Italy.
I am watching it all unfold on TNT Sport (formerly BT Sport) but I understand it can be watched on a number of platforms including YouTube.
I recommend that you take a look, you are likely to enjoy it, history may be in the makingâŠ
Having returned to Torquay by train, it was prudent to âsit outâ the next day while another weather front passed through. I confess to regrets at maligning Torquay in my last blog because, substantial walks contradicted my previous assessment. Initial impressions were tainted by the semi derelict Pavilion building adjacent to the marina which is now under redevelopment; the disruption while a new pedestrian area is under construction and the depressing aftermath of the demise of Debenhams, whose neglected, empty store commands the epicentre of the town. Our morning walk to the east took us through smart areas of impressive villas, lovely cliff and woodland paths and stunning views.
A glimpse of the sea from our woodland walk. it could be the French, not English Riviera.
Our afternoon walk in the west of the town did reveal empty shops and run down houses, but it all seems eminently affordable and probably on the âupâ as they tend to say in property circles. The town could boom again if global warming and expensive air travel results in more people holidaying at home.
One of the issues to be remembered with sailing yachts, particularly with an aft master cabin, is the noise made by even small ripples under the stern. I have often turned the yacht to moor bows to the wind but in marinas this is not always possible. In the big winds in Torquay and a fetch from the breakwater directly to our transom, it was likely to be a challenge sleeping. Mindful that we had suffered from some noisy nights in Scotland, I have made a gizmo to minimise the âslappingâ.
The ‘noodle solution’.
Threading floating rope through sections of ânoodlesâ (tubular swimming aids), to make a floating âsnakeâ, it is pulled loosely under the counter to float before the water surface meets the hull and eliminate the ripples before they hit what is effectively, a drum. I have to say that this was largely successful in reducing the noise and only the larger wavelets troubled the hull. We slept well!
Negotiating Portland Bill, over 40 miles from Torbay, is all about timing as the race must be taken on the flood and optimised for favourable tidal streams. It was not popular that this necessitated a 4am reveille, in the dark, and heavy rain – again, but it had to be done. The passage was not enjoyable, with a lumpy sea and the torrential rain driving into the cabin through the main hatch, not the sailing experience to convince anyone of the pleasures of yacht ownership.
Rounding Portland Bill.
Thankfully, our timing and positioning at the Bill was âdead onâ and the rounding was as smooth as it could be in the spring tide and fresh wind. Â Our destination was Weymouth, it being a pretty and vibrant place to spend a âlayâ day while another weather system passed over us.
We were rewarded on our long walk along the coast path to Portland and back, by a spectacular display of wind and kite surfers, taking advantage of the very fresh winds in the smooth protected water of Portland Harbour.
Wind and kite surfers, so fast in the fresh wind. Thankfully, there were no collisions while we were watching.Spectacular!
Although there were big seas crashing onto Chesil Beach, the Cove Inn, was not experiencing the conditions from 2014, or we would not have been sat outside on the terrace!
The Cove Inn during a storm in 2014.
Weymouth was heaving and had a lot going on with live music on the quay, a little too close to our mooring. We managed to take in an accomplished and entertaining  Amy Winehouse tribute band concert at the Pavilion Theatre which provided a welcome diversion. The immense crowds on the Bank Holiday Sunday resulted in queues outside the restaurants which was off-putting until we discovered we could order fish and chips on-line and have them delivered to the yacht!
Crowds of people along the dock ‘gawping’ at the boats moored in the harbour. They were clearly more interested in the ‘stink pots’ moored behind Hejira.
We helped a similar sized yacht raft alongside us, this is quite normal in Weymouth Harbour. It turned out that they had three dogs on board, and they had liberally defecated on the deck, where we were handling the mooring warps. I am not a dog or cat lover having been allergic to them all my life, but I really canât understand their presence on an offshore cruising yacht.
The sail to Yarmouth via the Needles Channel in fresh westerly winds resulted in an enjoyable romp and we secured an alongside, walk ashore, pontoon berth in the harbour, with sufficient time to take the 4 mile walk to Freshwater and back.
Moored alongside in Yarmouth Harbour.
This is a lovely route following the old railway line alongside the river Yar heading south and through woods and farmland on the way back. It is handsomely rewarded at half distance by libation at the delightful Red Lion pub, next to Freshwater church.
Taking refreshment at the Red Lion in Freshwater.
Our intention had been to transit up to Newport in the centre of the Isle of Wight and âdry outâ when the tide receded, spending the day chillinâ and maybe using our free bus passes to casually get around the Island.
Unfortunately, our plans were aborted when Richard, woke up with an ear infection inducing vertigo and nausea. Richard has a malformed cochlea in his left ear which limits the frequencies he can hear (although it seems it’s mainly female voices that are the problem!), Â so issues with his one functioning ear are more serious than in a binaural individual. I was also thinking that a dizzy crew on deck might be less than optimum or safe, and with the ladies insisting that he book the soonest doctor appointment, we decided to carry the tide straight back to our home berth in Northney Marina.
This turned out to be one of the best sails of the whole adventure with the tide under us, blue skies and a warm, fresh south/south westerly giving us a sprightly beam reach, we flew up the Solent, into Chichester Harbour and up the Emsworth Channel to Northney Marina and our home berth.
Our sailing adventure was over. We had travelled nearly 2000 miles since the second of April with various crew and several punctuations. We have negotiated some sailing landmarks, the Crinan and Caledonian Canals, Orkney, and the Hebrides. Despite awful weather, particularly in the North, it has been a rewarding and memorable, if taxing itinerary. There is now an extensive list of jobs to be done, some emanating from the recent refit, but Hejira should be in tip top shape for next yearâs adventure, whatever that may turn out to be. I will be taking modest local trips for the rest of the year which will probably not merit a blog before âliftingâ in mid-winter.
Having returned by train to Plymouth, there was only a modest target for the next 5 days, to transfer Hejira from the oversubscribed, QAB Marina in Plymouth, to the sister MDL Marina in Torquay for another period of âfreeâ berthing.
It was a pleasure to welcome old friends, Peter Hoade and Jem Vercoe as crew for the brief cruise, both of whom, having retired to Devon, live relatively locally.
The geriatric crew. Jem on the left, Peter behind him.
Jem used to work for Atom and has sailed with me since my first âcruisingâ yacht, the 18-foot Sailfish, âMowgleeâ in the  â80âs. We upgraded  to the 23-foot Dufour, âLa Premiereâ, which was a Trailer Sailer and was, in retrospect, a pretty crap yacht. We took her across the English Channel several times to Brittany and the Channel Islands, with a noisy, smelly, 9hp Johnson 2-stroke outboard mounted in the centre cockpit! This was replaced by the larger lift keel, Parker 31, âKarismaâ, which was a  good yacht although our attempts to race her were hampered (quite apart from our lack of skillâŠ) by a punitive handicap as she had a wing keel (designed for sitting on), fractional rig and long waterline length, all of which counted against her. We took her on some very memorable cruises including around the UK (but cutting through the Caledonian Canal), Normandy on the 50th anniversary of the D-Day Landings, a stormy crossing to Ireland to (only just) meet my son arriving in Cork as an unaccompanied 8-year-old, and across Biscay to Northern Spain. All of these adventures were with Jem who is now 74 and in remission from cancer, so it is a real treat to reprise our sailing relationship following his 20 years spent living in France.
Jem’s thoughtful addition to the ships stores.
Peter, at 77 is also a long-time sailing companion and friend, who becomes more ponderous as his years advance.
Fowey is my favourite destination on the English South Coast, so it was compelling that we should take the 22-mile detour, west, to visit this jewel. Leaving QAB early with the favourable current and wind, we hoped that there would be mooring buoys vacated by yachts heading west, taking advantage of the easterly wind and favourable tide towards the Scillies, then, with the wind veering westerly and the tide turning, there should be another exodus to the east. It was a good theory and it âplayed outâ as there was a choice of empty visitors mooring buoys on our arrival.
Recently vacated visitor mooring in Fowey.
I remembered Jem and Peter in their more vigorous years and, maybe, the 4-mile, hilly and rugged, âHall Walkâ from Boddinick to Polruan, that I recommended for pre-pub exercise proved to be a little too much for their ageing bodies. They were probably more used to a strenuous afternoon in front of the telly, but they were game and so we set off, with an initial spring in our steps.
A view from the Hall Walk looking down at Polruan. You can see how precipitous the bank is.
As the walk went on, and the repeated inclines and descents took their toll, I became so frustrated with the lack of progress and the stopping at every available bench for a rest, that I pressed on to Polruan for a pint and to await their arrival.
Pont Pill, halfway round the Hall Walk.
One pint led to two and three as time passed and I became concerned that something had befallen the pair of septuagenarians  and I actually worried that I should not have left them behind. When they finally arrived at the Russell Inn, Peter was in a terrible state, he had taken a tumble down the precipitous bank at the side of the track, into an impenetrable thicket of brambles. It seems that gravity got the better of him on a steep downhill section and he couldnât slow down, so when the track turned left, he carried on over the edge. They maintain that it took 25 minutes to extract him from the prickly embrace of the brambles and climb back up to the track. His arms were a mass of bleeding scratches and he looked thoroughly dishevelled.
Peter showing evidence of his ‘off piste’ adventure. His face and arms were a bit of a bloody mess
I felt bad for having abandoned them â but it didnât last longâŠ
Our passage the next day, turned out to be a romp, with the log registering over 7 knots on a close reach for the duration. The river Yealm is another magical destination with the picture postcard villages of Newton Ferrers and Noss Mayo on opposite sides of the creek. We had stayed in front of the rain expected in Fowey in the morning, but it arrived in the afternoon, just as we embarked on the walk around the head of the inlet between the two villages.
The creek that had to be rounded between Noss Mayo and Newton Ferrers involving another walk.
Unfortunately, this time, it was Jem who struggled, limping along at a snails pace, repeatedly pausing and grasping every available hand hold with his knee giving him a lot of pain â I suggested he âwalk it offâ but this didnât go down well and it didnât happen.
This was the alternative to the long walk around the top of the creek but we would have had to have waited and the Dolphin Inn beckoned..
The ferry service in the Yealm is now shared between two enterprises. From 10am to 4pm it is run by, Billy, an old boy who has clearly been doing it for years judging by the state of his boat and who inconveniently stops for lunch. He doesnât have a VHF radio any more, and with no mobile signal, getting a lift is a bit hit and miss. He has little time for the upstart electric water taxi, which is a new, very smart, wheelchair and environmentally friendly service. They can be called on VHF and run first thing but only up to 09.45 and then after 16.00 presumably in some sort of accommodation with the incumbent. They are a not-for-profit organisation who are, very tactfully, polite about their more expensive rival, and sanguine about the situation.
The excellent electric water taxi.
Just before our departure, I was stood on the mid-stream pontoon, passing the time of day with another yacht crew, when there was a gurgle from Hejira next to where we were standing. Imagine my embarrassment at the brown cloud that appeared. Peter had not switched the toilet to the holding tank and was discharging his waste straight into the river â I was very annoyed!
What a re-affirming passage to Dartmouth, the only thing missing as we creamed along under sail alone, was the presence of sunshine and maybe dolphins.
The impressive castle at the entrance to the Dart.
Securing a visitors berth in Kingswear, opposite Dartmouth, we could walk ashore but ventured no further than the Steampacket Inn, which was within the scope of the other two.
The excellent Steam Packet Inn, suitably close to the marina’
With the moorings in both Fowey and the River Yealm costing ÂŁ31, the Darthaven Marina fee was an eye watering ÂŁ78.39 – we ate on board!
We set off early for Torquay as the weather was set to deteriorate and, although we had to stem an unfavourable current and lumpy wind over tide conditions at Start Point, the blow sped us the short distance to Torquay where a downwind pontoon berth was thankfully, easy to negotiate.
The âHole in the Wallâ pub dating from 1540 was a rare gem in what, in our opinion is a pretty seedy seaside town but it is a safe place to leave Hejira for a week back home.
The ferry lady on the way back to the yacht from Polruan after the ‘Hall Walk’, said it was 5 miles not the 3 on the signposts, and no-one mentioned that it was up a hill then back down then up another steep climb and so on before finally returning to sea level, nice little walk my arse!!!!
As one gets older, inevitably, one accrues more experience and certain niceties fall away in favour of expediencies.
So it is with sailing, gone are the days when I am prepared to sail close hauled to windward for hours on end, beating into a lumpy sea, tacking back and forth, barely making any progress, getting covered in spray, uncomfortable and cold. Now I tend to haul the main sail in tight, bear away, just enough to fill the sail, and use the engine. No shame in thatâŠ
Our 156-mile overnight passage from Islay to Dun Laoghaire fell into this category, but this had the further complication of persistent rain. So, we adjusted and softened the philosophy still further. We retained the âconservatoryâ that we had erected over the cockpit, rolled up the sides and stayed in the dry until we needed the visibility (and âstreet credâ) for our harbour entry. Pragmatist, not purist…
Sitting out a period of strong head winds for 24 hours in Dun Laoghaire, I took the bus to surprise my granddaughters (and what a reaction when I jumped out at them from behind some bushes!) while the other two took the train to walk from Bray to Greystones again.
The town of Bray. Looking back from the top of Bray Head.
They didnât have the nutter to âshow them the wayâ this time, so they got lost – physically, not spiritually.
Our 278m mile passage all the way back to Plymouth was going to take two days and two nights and after another torrential downpour, we had a very pleasant sail through the first night.
Difficult to capture in a picture but – TORRENTIAL rain!
The blow that we had avoided while moored in Dun Laoghaire, had left a lumpy sea and when the wind died away and we were unable to carry any sail for stability, we wallowed uncomfortably as we pressed on under engine â again. It is a testament to the Scopoderm sea sickness patches, that John breezed through this period without succumbing to âmal de merâ, particularly as he didnât have the benefit of a mobile signal to distract him.
Sunrise over Saint George’s Channel.
We were blessed again by the arrival of dolphins as we crossed the Bristol Channel, dozens of them, some quite small, so they must have been whole families. (I have had the ultra sonic anti fouling system turned off) There are clearly quite a lot of âpodsâ in the Bristol Channel as I seem to always have encounters in the area.
The old Lizard Lighthouse. It’s now a visitor and education centre for which my company, Atom made most of the displays and carried out much of the work.
As we have travelled south, the weather and temperature has gradually improved and the crew wistfully, speculated about how much nicer a summer sailing cruise in France or Spain might have been⊠The sea temperature in Orkney had been ten degrees, whereas, on the south coast of England, it is a balmy 15 degrees. I had packed three pairs of shorts and it was a complete waste of time.
Queen Annesâs Battery Marina in Plymouth is one of the 19Â MDL (Marina Developments Limited)Â stable of marinas and, followers of this blog, will know that I have had my issues with MDL. I pay over ÂŁ13,000 a year for the right to have an annual berth in Northney Marina. This is the supposedly all encompassing âPlatinum Otium Plusâ package which includes free berthing in other marinas in the group. It was therefore disappointing to be told that my stay in QAB marina was limited as they had to âmake room for a visiting rallyâ.
Working my future plans around the restricted berth availability, we will return to Sunningdale on the train after a truncated but satisfying cruise âover the topâ. We didnât visit many of the places we intended to, partly due to the awful weather but mainly because of crew pressures to return home. Since Inverness, we have logged a total of 883 miles in only two weeks which is a ridiculously punishing schedule of passage making. I have vowed in the past to slow down and enjoy the sailing and the destinations along the way but, once again, I have found myself suckered into pressing on and I must REALLY try to avoid this in future.
Queueing for fuel at QAB, Plymouth. Barbican in the background.
I will return to Plymouth before I overstay my welcome, and resume in a more leisurely fashion with another crew.
Richard writes:
âIâm going to cook dinnerâ, said Nick, with a wistful look on his face and a wry smile. âCorned beef hash, itâs one of my signature dishesâ. Again, that strange twinkle in his eyes. Now, in normal circumstances, when youâre not worn down by days of a punishing watch schedule, your mind would be more alert. Youâd realise that something is not quite right.
As it turned out, the hash was surprisingly good; onions, peppers and chillies of course, but also corned beef, potatoes and peas. All washed down with a cup of tea.
âAh haâ he says, after we had eaten, grinning from ear to ear, âI can show you now, look at thisâ and produced the box from which the potatoes (Waitrose Rosti) had been extracted. Best Before Nov 2020!
It was absolutely fine, no ill effects whatsoever.
So, if Nick says heâs going to cook you dinner, be afraid, very afraid!