Reduit return

The Indian meal turned out to be a really pleasant culinary experience after an early issue about the table location. Although it was predominantly fine quality Indian, some dishes were an Indian/Chinese fusion and the experience was lifted by this unusual variety.

Marigot Bay centre, market in foreground below, bay in background
Marigot Bay centre, market in foreground below, bay in background

We had intended to breakfast in the adjacent cafƩ/bakery but after waiting over 20 minutes for our order to be taken and witnessing others waiting longer for their meal, we decided to buy the ingredients and cook on board. Our departure was straightforward once we had identified that the bow mooring line was of the floating, not the sinking variety and needed to be taken away from our exit route by a dinghy.

Neville and Lynn battle the tangle
Neville and Lynn battle the tangle

We took a slow cruise north to allow Neville to deploy all 3 fishing rods. This tactic actually backfired as the lines all tangled and he and Lynn didn’t get them untangled (or rather cut apart) until we were nearly at our destination. So, nil fish for Neville in nearly 3 weeks while we watched locals landing them ā€˜hand over fist’!

We are now anchored off Reduit beach, Rodney Bay in view of the hotel we occupied with our wives in December. We have chosen not to enter the marina until tomorrow so we can avoid being antisocial as we intend to cook a paella using the BBQ on deck this evening.

Our December hotel on Reduit beach
Our December hotel on Reduit beach

On the subject of ā€˜antisocial’, it is significant to note that jet skis are banned in St. Vincent and the Grenadines while they are allowed in St. Lucia. As a result we are reluctant to venture away from the yacht while swimming for fear of our lives as they tear up and down at breakneck speed, clearly in the hands of children and novices !

Jet ski menace
Jet ski menace
Eyes peeled and don't go too far!
Eyes peeled and don’t go too far!

Wildlife….

Our meal last night was taken in the restaurant at the end of the bay, deep into the mangroves and this is part of their problem. The food was excellent and they were the only bar so far to serve a passable ale. BUT, we were bitten alive!

Pirates bar in the mangroves
Pirates bar in the mangroves
Shoreside access through the mangroves
Shoreside access through the mangroves

We all had a good lie in, listening for movement, reluctant to be the first to break the silence.

Connected to shore power we enjoyed toast for breakfast and avidly followed the rugby tweets. We adjourned to the beach (via the ferry) where we had an ethnic lunch and relaxed and swam.

Breath in Neville!
Breath in Neville!
Marigot beach
Marigot beach

This Marigot Bay destination is absolutely magical and seems to even draw cruise ship clients who are ā€˜bussed in’ to spend an hour or two on the beach. The wildlife is interesting as well.

Friendly finch
Friendly finch

We were determined to enjoy more of the ale and thought we had timed our return visit to coincide with ā€˜happy hour’ and to precede the insects. In the event, I think we failed on both counts.

Sunset nibbles
Sunset nibbles

Following a recommendation and suffering withdrawal, we decided to indulge in an Indian meal and will report back on this!

Fishing frustration

The exclusive hotel at Anse Chastanet as seen from offshore. Some of the rooms don't have windows!
The exclusive hotel at Anse Chastanet as seen from offshore. Some of the rooms don’t have windows!

With only two short passages left before the family leave, Neville’s currently unsuccessful fishing has taken on an air of desperation. Not only did he interrogate the fishing tackle shop owner in Kingstown, we made substantial purchases and with a promise that the lighter winds will allow us to make way at the requisite slow speed, plans are afoot.

Neville has rigged no less than three rods with small lures having witnessed fishermen landing boat loads of tuna using no more than a hand line and tiny squid lure. Being unsuccessful on the ā€˜slow boat to Marigot’ we witnessed an old couple in a local dinghy trawling with rods just off the entrance. By chance, when we went to the pool in the Capella Hotel, the two Brits put into the dinghy dock and I chatted with them.

3 members of the Mines family relaxing at the pool in the Capella Hotel at the Marina in Marigot Bay
3 members of the Mines family relaxing at the pool in the Capella Hotel at the Marina in Marigot Bay

They had been visiting Marigot Bay for a number of years and made contact with a local with the boat who rented it to them for Ā£10 a day. They were generally successful with their lures and showed me what they used. The hotel would cook their catch for their evening meals. We now have to buy the recommended lures in Rodney Bay (in the hardware store) and spend a morning trawling with them before we put in to the Marina. Anyway, we intend to have a ā€˜lay day’ here in Marigot Bay tomorrow and enjoy being connected to shore power, proper coffee and air conditioning!

Soufriere means Sulphur

I had warned that the long crossing to St. Lucia was going to be a challenge, a long beat, exposed to the Atlantic with winds over 20 knots. We tackled it with two reefs in the main and with both foresails but a little bit of jib rolled away. We fortunately had a favourable current and we were logging over 9 knots SOG at some stages. We did take some ā€˜big ones’ over the top but this was not really a problem as the wind and sun soon dried us off but left the salt behind.

Paula takes a soaking
Paula takes a soaking
As do Neville and Lynn
As do Neville and Lynn

We had the company of a couple of brown boobies riding the winds off our sails. Spectacular until they decided to ā€˜relieve themselves’!

Brown Booby. Thanks to Dr. Stephen (Maturin) Williams for leaving his wildlife books on board.
Brown Booby.
Thanks to Dr. Stephen (Maturin) Williams for leaving his wildlife books on board.

Bound for Soufriere in St. Lucia, we were met by Byron, the first ā€˜boat boy’ a good 5 miles out. We picked up a mooring buoy and went ashore to clear in, wander around the town and have the obligatory beer. The whole bay has an underlying smell of sulphur which we imagine emanates from the volcano and that the smell has spawned the name.

Interesting Soufriere property
Interesting Soufriere property

I will let Paula and Lynn describe the antics of a ā€˜stag’ crew of Germans on an adjacent catamaran – they will do it better:-

As Nick said our crossing was eventful. The waves were huge. For sailors this was good sailing, for us it was white knuckles holding on desperately, in between getting a soaking as the waves gushed overboard.Ā  Apparently that was perfect as it meant we got to our destination well ahead of our eta!

We promised that we would both go to church every Sunday if we survived the journey. It now looks that we will be on our knees for the foreseeable future.

Having lost breakfast we were rather hungry, but have made up for it by eating copious amounts of crisps.

Joining us in the anchorage this evening is a Bavarian boat full of what we can describe as middle aged, gay exhibitionists. We have seen them in their birthday suits and we believe the party is just beginning!!! Ā We will be using binoculars and cameras to check they are having a good time!!!!!

Our visit to Soufriere was interesting. It is certainly a colourful town, where all seem to be having a ā€˜good time’.Ā  The customs clearing ā€˜in’ experience was once again a lengthy paper exercise with lots of carbon copies in triplicate in a room which is maintained at the highest temperature ever!!!!!!

We can report that Neville has still not caught anything with his very expensive lure. We have seen many fishermen with buckets full of fish….. We leave him sobbing into his Rum Punch questioning his skills as a hunter/gatherer.

Persistence rewarded

Having ā€˜cleared out’ of St. Vincent and the Grenadines at Blue Lagoon, south of Kingstown, we have 24 hours grace to leave their jurisdiction and we have anchored in Cumberland Bay with our famous (?) ā€˜webbing’ around a palm tree ashore and back – on a ā€˜slip’, cleated back on board.

No need for outboard or oars, hand over hand along the webbing

We will make the passage to St. Lucia, tomorrow, starting early so we can just slip our palm tree purchase at first light.

Cumberland Bay is very pretty but it has been an experience as we had four ā€˜boat boys’ alongside, clamouring for our attention as we tried to sort ourselves out. We managed to appease most of them with a can of beer, paying off with cash those that actually took our line (webbing) ashore. Later a couple of young lads trying to sell jewellery complained that the beers we offered in compensation for not purchasing were not cold enough!

Hejira viewed from the bar
Hejira viewed from the bar
The bar viewed from Hejira
The bar viewed from Hejira

We Ā felt obliged to use the nearest ā€˜Mohito’s’ bar but we were a little surprised when the proprietor, surreptitiously sent out for orange juice and the rum content in the punches seemed to be non-existent. Paula was dead downwind from the ā€˜ganja’ smokers so probably didn’t miss the rum!

Feeling more comfortable on board, we returned to adjust our mooring arrangement but although close to the shore, we have good anchor holding and with the keel raised, I am sufficiently comfortable for the night ahead.

 

Lynn is delighted with some news:-

Today we received the news we have been hoping for…..the little dog on Petit Nevis has been rescued….she is a lovely little female. The team from Mustique sent a video clip of their greeting….their words were ā€˜she seemed to be saying thank you!’ She has now been examined, the vet said her heart is fine…good start…no more fleas, no more tics…she is now being fed…So, so happy! She will be very well looked after now. She deserves it! The gentleman who organised the rescue was telling me how yesterday they lost an old dog through road negligence….so somehow this little dog will hopefully bring some solace…..His team are trying to educate local people on how animals also deserve a bit of paradise….education is everything! People here are not bad, they have a lot to deal with. When all is said and done, it is soooo nice to know this little dog will undoubtedly bring a lot of happiness. She was meant to be….I look forward to receiving news of her wellbeing.

IMG_1785

On a different note Nick has had his challenges today…mooring is not simple. We are anchored as well as ā€˜strapped’ to a palm tree! We seem to be secured both ends of the boat…as nice as the bay is…we will not be indulging in our usual swim. Water seems a bit dark and uninviting. Skipper says early to bed and early departure tomorrow….we all agree….Locals are very nice but also very stoned! Hey! Ho! We expect the journey to be a bit ā€˜choppy’ as forewarned by our skipper. But what must be, must be, we will survive!

Neville is still throwing the fishing line into the sea expecting a biting whale…a fortune spent in St.Vincent on fishing tackle hoping to catch Moby Dick! Watch this space……We find it quite entertaining! He is a bit desperate having seen locals landing tuna, barracuda etc with no more than a hand-line!

Neville with the new 'guaranteed' lure
Neville with the new ‘guaranteed’ lure

KingsTOWN – not to be confused.

What a wonderful destination Blue Lagoon on St. Vincent has turned out to be. There is so much to tell but I am conscious that I have ben ā€˜hogging’ the postings so I must leave some revelations for the ā€˜girls’ to describe. As something of an ā€˜aide memoir’ to them, I will just mention pool, bars, lady up the mast, restaurants, school bus, KingsTOWN, Cathedral, flight changes, the freezer, spicy fries, the best Pina Colada, unexpected mutual acquaintances and THE DOG!

 

So, I will leave it all up to Paula and Lynn to comment:-

 

Where do we start…let’s backtrack to 2 days ago, anchored in the bay of Petit Nevis, a small uninhabited island. We spotted a dog on the beach but no humans….Nick swam ashore to check if snorkelling was feasible. He was greeted by this friendly, emaciated, abandoned dog. Clearly this poor animal was starving….Nick took a photo…heart-breaking….So started my mission to save this poor animal. I will save you the details but suffice to say that after dozens of emails and offers of financial assistance, he/she will be rescued….Mustique residents have organised a rescue mission, a vet will look him over and hopefully it will eventually find a deserving home. They have promised to keep me informed…watch this space….

School bus moonlighting
School bus moonlighting
Kingstown Cathedral
Kingstown Cathedral
Kingstown market
Kingstown market

This bay is perfect….everything without pretentions (or tuck up, Nick’s contribution!!!)…We visited Kingstown with its colourful architecture and community. What never fails to amaze us is all school children are immaculately dressed in their smart uniforms in spite of the evident lack of resources.

 

 

On return to the boat we settled by the swimming pool for a few hours of leisure! Moved our bodies to the beach bar where we enjoyed probably the best Pina Colada and Rum Punch….they keep improving!

Marina pool
Marina pool
Marina from the beach bar
Marina from the beach bar

We always say it is a small world….well it is! As we headed for the marina supermarket we met the boutique manager, a brief conversation quickly established she is from Windsor and knows Bobby King!!!!! Is there anyone out there who does not????

Needless to say I found a bargain in the boutique! Perfect end to a perfect day!

 

Lumpy

Lynn and Paula make an un-edited contribution:-

A Perfect Storm what a brilliant film!!!! However, what we went through this morning puts that film to shame!!!! Waves were three times the size that good old George had to endure. More importantly we survived, but it was an adventure, which apparently according to skip we have to experience again for longer in a few days’ time.Ā  The 20 foot swell (at least) smashed the bow and water gushed onto deck leaving us drenched and hanging on for dear life.Ā  The heroic crew took this in their stride!! You may think that Lynn and I are exaggerating; the lack of any photos proves that the bare knuckle ride was pretty scary. Ā We made it!!! Blue Lagoon was a welcome haven to the now battered crew. We were greeted by an amazing toothless local who guided us to a safe place in the marina. After kissing the ground we ventured to the bar for a dirty beer. The marina is lovely except for the cold showers a small price to pay for terra firma.

Blue Lagoon sanctuary
Blue Lagoon sanctuary
Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent mooring and shore side restaurants
Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent mooring and shore side restaurants

Tonight we are eating in the Marina restaurant to celebrate our survival!Ā  We might even have a pina colada and a rum punch, this will be topped off with air conditioning on board.

What a life of excitement and luxury.

Bequia beckoned again

A favourable wind helped speed our crossing from Mustique to Bequia and it had been our intention to anchor in Friendship Bay but the swells were finding their way into the bay and it would have meant a ā€˜rolly’ night so we took a look and departed intending to make passage to Admiralty Bay but the wind and swell direction favoured a small anchorage off the uninhabited island of Petit Nevis.

Atlantic coast of Petit Nevis
Atlantic coast of Petit Nevis
Anchored off Petit Nevis
Anchored off Petit Nevis

This had been a whale rendering location and the remnants of this activity is still evident ashore with a derelict dock, slip and the remains of the winch arrangement they would have used to pull the whales up the slip.

Petit Nevis derelict Whaling Station
Petit Nevis derelict Whaling Station

Venturing ashore it was disconcerting to discover an abandoned dog which was not much more than skin and bones but friendly with the most appealing eyes. When the ladies saw the photographs I had taken, they were mortified and trawled the internet for the St. Vincent equivalent of the RSPCA offering to fund the rescue of the poor creature.

Poor abandoned dog on Petit Nevis
Poor abandoned dog on Petit Nevis

As the afternoon wore on, the anchorage became subject to swell so we decided to seek the calm of Admiralty Bay in Bequia. This was just an hour’s sail past a wrecked ship and the peculiar Moonhole eco resort.

Shipwreck
Shipwreck
Moonhole
Moonhole

 

 

 

 

 

We Ā tucked ourselves into the more local corner, away from most of the cruisers to anchor for the night.

The 'local' corner of Admiralty Bay, Bequia
The ‘local’ corner of Admiralty Bay, Bequia

Basil !

m_DSC00310
School

The Saturday (4 hours behind) morning was focussed on following Twitter for the account of Esher’s clash away at top of the table Richmond. Best not dwell on the result as Richmond secured a 4 try bonus win but taking a swim at half time does help to give some perspective

Airport
Airport

Taking a trip ashore we were offered a lift by a friendly buggy driver who took us via a tour of the local’s village to the Cotton House Hotel and Endeavour Bay from where we walked back to the waterfront, past the end of the runway.

 

This gave us something of a taste for what is clearly a very well-run island, the driver telling us that there are only 100 indigenous local residents, the rest of the workforce being imported from St. Vincent – after stringent security checks! The island is owned by the property owners and run through the Mustique Company which seems a very slick operation with seemingly good infrastructure and welfare. The moorings at least are very substantial and confidence inducing, worth the price for the peace of mind.

Beach looking back at the moorings
Beach looking back at the moorings
Wetlands walk
Wetlands walk

They even have designated private beach picnic and BBQ areas which are booked by the various villas.

Our walk around the wetland reserve was ill conceived because as black clouds appeared there was little shelter from the Manchineel trees which renders rain running off their leaves toxic, causing blistering, then the trail through the mangroves around the lake exposed us to voracious biting insects so we ended up almost running to the end of the trail and the sanctuary of the beach.

Returning to the supermarket, John Cleese gallantly let Lynn go in front of him in the queue for the till on the basis that she had very little shopping only for her to pay by credit card – which is a very long winded process out here – that will have impressed him !!

Basil's Bar
Basil’s Bar

So, it was off to Basil’s Bar and our reserved table for a meal and the blues band. Quoting from the guide, ā€˜the Mustique Blues festival is World famous’, so there. In the event, our reserved table had been re-assigned to others (no doubt more influential and definitely richer) and the meal was very disappointing – no shrimps (half the menu) and perversely, no onions!

Basil's Bar Blues Band
Basil’s Bar Blues Band

The saving grace was that the music and ambiance was brilliant although the clientele that were dancing seemed to have enjoyed some additional stimulation. It all made for a very memorable evening.

 

Lynn & Paula write:-

Nick has basically covered our days in Mustique. However we think we should comment on the bar and those ladies (broadly speaking) that were there!

Firstly we both felt out of place as we don’t have the shape of a twiglet. Neither do we have a face, neck or bum lift. Also our energy levels were not artificially enhanced. We did not blend in very well as our spouses were of our generation, and did not smoke very large cigars.Ā  Ā Finally we didn’t prance around the dance floor smoking (something) wearing what appeared to be little more than a pair of pyjamas.Ā  Our comments may seem to be catty but we were merely good observers. Maybe we were one of the few who could still see properly……….

Despite our comments the evening was really good fun due to the fantastic music and the realization that excesses of money clearly does not necessarily enhance one’s life.

Mustique has been a memorable experience!

Lumpy passage past Canouan

 

Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau
Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau

It was timely to raise the anchor in Saline Bay, Mayreau just as another cruise liner arrived and started to set up their equipment on the beach. We took a turn around the pretty Saltwhistle Bay before embarking on the 20 mile passage to Mustique with two reefs in the main.

We chose to pass Canouan on the Atlantic side so we could take a look at the new hotel and developments. Speaking to locals when we stopped on the west coast on our way south, it would seem that the hotel is open but that business is slow. How many up-market resorts can the Caribbean support?

New Hotel, Canouan
New Hotel, Canouan

The passage to Mustique was a little ā€˜lumpy’ as it was exposed to the Atlantic swells all the way but the Scopoderm patch (as approved by Stephen on the trans-Atlantic) that Paula is using for the first time on this cruise seems to be ā€˜doing the trick’ and her spirits stayed high for the duration. There were official mooring buoys available on our arrival in Britannia Bay at a cost of 200 EC Dollars but this includes an extra 2 free nights. They look substantial and passed the ā€˜full astern test’ so we confidently took the dinghy ashore for a reconnoitre which inevitably concluded with a rum punch in Basil’s Bar.

Britannia Bay Village
Britannia Bay Village

It being our intention to have a ā€˜lay day’ in Mustique we reviewed the menu and booked a table for the following evening when there is to be a live blues band playing. We returned to Hejira before dusk for a ā€˜spag bol’ on board, a series of dominoes and another early night.

Paula and Lynn write:-

Well its about the time that we have to pamper ourselves. Both of us need to deal with worn out nail polish. The idea of setting foot on Mustique without neatly tailored toe nails is just not worth thinking about.

Yet another beauty spot! Whilst this is a private island it is nice to know they allow non-residents to walk along the beach and trek the island providing you stick to some rules…no pictures of residents!!! Makes you very curious…A Ā brief visit to the very ‘up-market’ boutiques confirmed we would not be shopping here….a nice little top to wear over a nice little swimsuit…only $425.00US!!!!! Probably a bargain for most residents here. A quick scan with the binoculars does not find a small dwelling, all properties seem vast….

Our fellow shoppers, in the very well stocked supermarket, were clearly the staff dispatched for fresh supplies. Another world! We feel very lucky indeed to be able to share this bit of paradise. We are looking forward to our meal this evening…what to wear??? Little dress? Maybe….how to get into the dinghy with a dress and remain somewhat elegant?? Hmmmm…….

 

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